Poplin is achieved using a weave in which there are twice as many warp (vertical) yarns as weft yarns per square centimetre. Also, the weft yarn is thicker than the warp yarn. Poplin is tightly woven with a plain weave. In other words, the weft yarns form a criss-cross pattern with the warp yarns. The finest poplins are made of Egyptian cotton.
Result: Poplin made using a weave that gives it a silky feel.
Comments: Poplin is recognised as a quality fabric and is used to make the smartest shirts including ceremonial or workday shirts.
Note : This fabric was formerly called “papelín”, because of the place of its creation, the Papal city of Avignon in France.
End on end is a type of poplin where different colours are used for the warp and weft yarns. This weaving technique is used for the manufacture of plain fabrics.
Result: The fabric has a distinctive heathered feel.
Comments: End on end is usually worn at the weekend or in summertime.
A variation of Oxford cloth, the weaving technique for natte fabric is designed to highlight the weave effect. Indeed, squares in the weave are more visible.
Result: A soft substantial fabric, natte has a very specific check effect.
This fabric is used to make authentic jeans.
Result: A flexible and strong cotton fabric.
Comments: Denim is generally worn at the weekend.
The twill weave has oblique or diagonal lines called wales. This weave is characterised by the more pronounced wales on the front of the fabric. It can be warp or weft.
Result: It is soft and silky, and easy to iron. It can be used to perfectly recreate Italian elegance.
Comments: Twill is renowned for its durability and is ideal for open neck evening shirts and for weekday work shirts.
Oxford is basket weave fabric, where two weft and warp yarns of the same “thickness”, or two weft yarns of a smaller size and a single, bigger and softer weft yarn are used. Normally white warp and coloured weft yarns are used; which emphasises the weave and gives a check effect.
Result: A soft substantial fabric, Oxford has a very specific check effect.
Comments: Oxford cloth is ideal for casual shirts, and we often use it for buttoned down collar shirts.
Note : This fabric was named after the city and the University of the same name. It was created by a flemish weaver who immigrated to England at the time of the edict of Nantes, in approximately 1685.
Pinpoint is combination of the benefits of Oxford durability, and poplin flexibility. It is lighter than Oxford due to its weave where one weft yarn passes over two warp yarns and then below the following two warp yarns. Similarly to Oxford, only the weft yarns are dyed.
Result: Pinpoint is very similar to Oxford while being lighter.
Comments: Pinpoint is a perfect compromise between the casual weekend shirt and the more formal weekday shirt.
Herringbone is a variation of twill, and has the characteristic diagonal ridges of this type of weave. To obtain the herringbone pattern, i.e. the characteristic zigzags, the direction of the pattern is changed at regular intervals. Result: Herringbone fabrics are soft, comfortable to wear and easy to iron
Comments: It is ideal for statement shirts, and used for fine wool suits.